Monday, 28 August 2017

Crossing the Black Sea

Nellie ready to board
Our excitement levels were high when we were told that we were booked on the cargo ship from Poti, Georgia. Destination: Varna, Bulgaria. 50 hours on the high(ish) seas to save poor old Nellie over 1000 miles of driving.

This promised to be no standard passenger ferry experience. How exciting!

This sentiment soon dissipated when we realised how slowly time passes on a huge cargo ship travelling at the breakneck speed of 12mph.

That line across the middle
It transpires that we were the only passengers wanting to sail from Georgia to Varna and Nellie was cargo item #3 of 3.

It was like being on a ghost ship, crewed by 40 friendly Bulgarians.

This is a big ship. Having walked the length of the cargo deck on numerous occasions I can testify that it is 233 paces long. Try counting this out the next time you are out for a walk and you'll get a sense of its size.

1033, 1034, 1035...
The primary entertainment is meal times and for the meat eater this is indeed a rare moment of excitement. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for a vegetarian - cheese for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Thank goodness Dave isn't lactose-intolerant.

So what does one do to pass the time? Here's what we came up with:

  • Walk all decks several times a day. The lower deck being 490 paces in circumference so three circuits of that soon adds to the step count, which is the maximum tolerable before you collapse from engine-fume asphyxiation.
  • Have numerous showers a day hoping that with each use the towels become pliable. Cargo ship towels are a natural exfoliant and scrub away your hard-won tan with every use.
  • Peace after the storm
    Instead of a razor, use tweezers to remove leg hair. Stop when one half leg later you finally appreciate the ridiculousness of this activity (Jo's leg, not Dave's).
  • Watch four episodes of the infuriatingly plodding The Handmaid's Tale. Then give up in preference for a quiet few hours of Solitaire or staring at the wall.
  • Read. Read. Read.

A violent thunderstorm kept us, and the crew, awake for the entire second night, which helped to mix things up.

And so we arrived safely, and relatively sane, we think.

Sunday, 20 August 2017

Europe's strangest furthest corner

Beyond the Black Sea: Tbilisi
We met a young Londoner on a walking tour of Skopje, Macedonia. He said he had nearly finished visiting every country in Europe, having just returned from Armenia. Not wishing to look stupid, I didn't blurt out, "But Armenia's not in Europe my young friend, it's on the far side of the Black Sea, between Turkey and Iran", but straight after the conversation I of course cranked up Google.

Armenia had figured in our travels already. In cities everywhere including Calcutta, Rangoon and Colombo, we noticed that the oldest churches - unimpressive to behold but obviously ancient - were Armenian. All originating from a sliver of a country thousands of difficult miles away. Why? 

A genuinely great read
I found the answers in a celebrated (it transpires) travel book, The Crossing Place: A Journey among the Armenians, which intrigued me so much that we changed our entire itinerary to visit the country.

So what did we see?

Well, first of all, the road sent us through the country next door, Georgia, and that was another revelation. In fact, ironically, we spent far more time there than Armenia.

Georgia has mountains as high as the Himalayas. It is so green that the Russians regard it as the original Garden of Eden (perhaps why they illegally squat on a quarter of its land). It has its own delicious cuisine, including sublime grilled aubergine slices folded around a walnut/garlic filling. It invented wine - and its wines are unusual to say the least. Despite Soviet baggage it's an economic success story.

Its
Armenia's icon, Mount Ararat, sadly part of Turkey these days
capital city, Tbilisi, is quirky and beautiful, if collapsing in parts. The famous polyphonic singing is mesmerising and beyond description. And it has the worst driving we've ever seen, including in Africa. So, exactly the things you go travelling for.

We stayed there for longer than planned because the car's front differential was chewing itself to bits and needed fixing (as previous blog post). But then we headed south to the border.  

Two things to know about Armenia: one, it was the first country in the world to adopt Christianity (301 AD) - hence all the churches from the world's first missionaries; two, its people are tough as old boots with a fierce sense of identity. As such, and surrounded as it is by huge non-Christian nations, it has suffered enormously over the centuries. But it has survived, even if many of its people now live elsewhere. Sadly Kim Kardashian is the most famous, but there are many others. If you ever see a local business with "Ararat" in the title, it's run by Armenians.

Dan Brown eat your heart out
We only spent four days there but we saw earthquake-cracked towns (from the ten-second jolt that killed 25,000+ in 1988), we wandered into the world's oldest, and probably smallest, cathedral, we smiled at the dippy statues in the capital, we drove across dreamily broad green steppes, and we scarcely believed that was the snowy top of 16,900ft Mount Ararat, not clouds, looming over Yerevan.

It's a frustrating country to describe because its culture and history are so much bigger than the place itself. It's said that all European medieval architecture derived from here, that significant mathematics and philosophy were born here. And let's not get started on the seminal language and script.

So there it is. In some ways we enjoyed this part of our trip more than any other. That's because we learned so much, and because we feel particularly lucky to have visited.

Click here for more of our photos
Thanks to this chap for the tip-off